:root{--bg:#f6f2ea;--paper:#fffdf8;--ink:#1d2621;--muted:#6b726c;--accent:#c4552d;--line:#e3dccd;--green:#2f4a3a}
@media (prefers-color-scheme:dark){:root:not([data-theme=light]){--bg:#141815;--paper:#1b201c;--ink:#ece8de;--muted:#9aa29b;--accent:#e2774f;--line:#2c332e;--green:#9cc3a9}}
*{box-sizing:border-box;margin:0}
body{background:var(--bg);color:var(--ink);font:17px/1.7 "Source Serif 4",Georgia,serif;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}
a{color:inherit}
.wrap{max-width:1080px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 20px}
.narrow{max-width:680px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 20px}
nav{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;padding:18px 20px;max-width:1080px;margin:0 auto;font:600 14px/1 Inter,system-ui,sans-serif;letter-spacing:.02em}
nav a{text-decoration:none}
nav .logo{font:700 18px/1 "Fraunces",Georgia,serif;letter-spacing:-.01em}
nav .links{display:flex;gap:18px;color:var(--muted)}
.hero{position:relative;min-height:72vh;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;color:#fff;overflow:hidden}
.hero img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.hero:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(transparent 35%,rgba(0,0,0,.65))}
.hero .wrap{position:relative;z-index:1;padding-bottom:48px;width:100%}
.kicker{font:600 12px/1.4 Inter,system-ui,sans-serif;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent)}
.hero .kicker{color:#ffd9c7}
h1{font:800 clamp(44px,8vw,92px)/.95 "Fraunces",Georgia,serif;letter-spacing:-.03em;margin:10px 0 14px}
h2{font:700 clamp(28px,4vw,40px)/1.1 "Fraunces",Georgia,serif;letter-spacing:-.02em;margin:0 0 14px}
h3{font:700 22px/1.2 "Fraunces",Georgia,serif;margin:0 0 6px}
.lede{font-size:clamp(18px,2.2vw,22px);max-width:640px;opacity:.95}
.stats{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:1px;background:var(--line);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;overflow:hidden;margin:36px 0}
.stats div{background:var(--paper);padding:18px 16px}
.stats b{display:block;font:700 28px/1 "Fraunces",Georgia,serif}
.stats span{font:500 12px/1.4 Inter,system-ui,sans-serif;color:var(--muted);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}
section{padding:56px 0}
.map{height:440px;border-radius:16px;border:1px solid var(--line);z-index:0}
.cards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:22px}
.card{display:block;text-decoration:none;background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:18px;overflow:hidden;transition:transform .2s}
.card:hover{transform:translateY(-3px)}
.card img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;display:block}
.card .body{padding:18px 20px 22px}
.card p{color:var(--muted);font-size:15px;line-height:1.55}
.story p{margin:0 0 1.2em}
.story p:first-child:first-letter{font:800 64px/.8 "Fraunces",Georgia,serif;float:left;margin:8px 10px 0 0;color:var(--accent)}
.meta{font:500 14px/1.5 Inter,system-ui,sans-serif;color:var(--muted)}
.step{display:grid;grid-template-columns:140px 1fr;gap:20px;padding:26px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.step .when{font:600 13px/1.5 Inter,system-ui,sans-serif;color:var(--muted)}
.step .when b{display:block;color:var(--ink);font-size:15px}
.grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(150px,1fr));gap:8px;margin-top:12px}
.grid img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:1;object-fit:cover;border-radius:10px;cursor:zoom-in;display:block;background:var(--line)}
.btn{display:inline-flex;gap:8px;align-items:center;font:600 15px/1 Inter,system-ui,sans-serif;background:var(--accent);color:#fff;text-decoration:none;padding:14px 22px;border-radius:999px;border:0;cursor:pointer}
.btn.alt{background:transparent;color:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--line)}
.guide{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:20px;padding:34px clamp(20px,4vw,44px)}
.guide ol{padding-left:0;list-style:none;counter-reset:r}
.guide ol li{counter-increment:r;position:relative;padding:0 0 18px 48px}
.guide ol li:before{content:counter(r);position:absolute;left:0;top:2px;width:30px;height:30px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--green);color:var(--paper);font:700 14px/30px Inter,system-ui,sans-serif;text-align:center}
.guide ul{padding-left:20px}
.guide ul li{margin-bottom:8px}
.box{border-left:3px solid var(--accent);padding:4px 0 4px 18px;margin:22px 0}
.box b{font:600 12px/1.4 Inter,system-ui,sans-serif;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.12em;color:var(--accent);display:block}
footer{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:30px 20px;text-align:center;font:500 13px/1.6 Inter,system-ui,sans-serif;color:var(--muted)}
#lb{position:fixed;inset:0;background:rgba(0,0,0,.92);display:none;align-items:center;justify-content:center;z-index:50;cursor:zoom-out}
#lb img{max-width:94vw;max-height:92vh;border-radius:6px}
#lb.on{display:flex}
.row{display:flex;gap:12px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:24px}
@media (max-width:720px){.cards{grid-template-columns:1fr}.stats{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}.step{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:6px}.map{height:340px}nav .links{gap:12px}}
@media print{nav,footer,.row,.map,#lb{display:none!important}body{background:#fff;color:#000;font-size:12pt}.guide{border:0;padding:0}section{padding:12px 0}}